The Power of Soybeans

Around 2011 or 2012, I had the opportunity to eat Taiwanese vegetarian cuisine, and that's where I first encountered the ingredient known as soy meat. This was the event that sparked my interest in soy food, and now soy meat can even be found on supermarket shelves.

At the time, it was only available in stores for vegetarians, but from the first time I ate it, I had a gut feeling that "this is going to be big."

So you felt some new potential in soy meat.

That's right. I've always loved cooking and had been creating healthy recipes using tofu. However, I became interested in soy meat because I found it more fascinating as an ingredient.

What I mean is, it's a challenging ingredient that makes you think, "How can I cook this to make it delicious?" depending on the preparation method.

I'm not a vegetarian, but after discovering soy meat, I researched it extensively. This was because I noticed my health was improving significantly. My skin problems and constipation disappeared, and my hay fever symptoms also improved considerably. I felt that "this might be the power of soybeans."

I gradually became captivated by soy food (dishes and food products using soybeans). I think many Japanese people are familiar with soybeans and have a vague sense that they are good for you. I was one of them.

As I learned about its nutrition and other aspects, I felt it would be a waste not to spread the word about such a wonderful ingredient. This led me to establish the Japan Soy-Food Meister Association, and now I work daily to promote soy food. I feel a great sense of accomplishment seeing how "soy food," which once yielded no search results, is now a commonly understood term.

Also, when people talked about soybeans, it was often stereotypically perceived as "that's why Japanese food is superior." Soy products were often seen as synonymous with Japanese cuisine. So, thinking it was a shame to confine soybeans to Japanese food in today's food culture where eating a variety of meals is the norm, we deliberately refer to dishes using soybeans collectively as "soy food" in katakana.

We have been sharing various information, including recipe development, and holding courses. Recently, we have also been collaborating with food manufacturers on product development.

I serve as the president of two companies: Shikoku Kakoki, a machinery manufacturer, and its subsidiary, Satonoyuki Foods Inc., which produces and sells tofu. Shikoku Kakoki primarily makes machines that fill paper or plastic containers with dairy products like milk and yogurt. The reason this company started making tofu dates back about 50 years, when the previous generation created a machine to fill tofu. At that time, the tofu industry was still dominated by handmade tofu shops and was in its developmental stages. With the determination to modernize the tofu industry using this machine, they decided to establish Satonoyuki Foods Inc.

This is a simple question, but did you not incur the displeasure of your dairy manufacturer clients by starting to produce tofu?

A tofu manufacturer might seem close to a dairy manufacturer, but we make different things. Therefore, we were able to avoid competing with Shikoku Kakoki's client companies. Milk and soy milk have similar compositions, but they are different products, so no matter how much we made, the dairy manufacturers didn't get angry.

Since then, Shikoku Kakoki has been in the B2B business, while Satonoyuki Foods Inc. has been in the B2C business. A characteristic of our group is that on one hand, we're dealing with large machinery transactions worth hundreds of millions of yen with corporations, and on the other, we're negotiating selling prices with mass retailers in units of 50 sen (laughs).

I studied at Rikkyo from junior high through graduate school. In university, I went to the Department of Chemistry in the Faculty of Science, and in graduate school, I majored in the genetics of *Bacillus subtilis natto*. After obtaining my degree, I conducted research on *Bacillus subtilis* at the National Food Research Institute of the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. *Bacillus subtilis natto* is a type of *Bacillus subtilis*.

Later, when Keio University established the Institute for Advanced Biosciences in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture, in 2001, I was invited to join, and I have been conducting research in Tsuruoka ever since. Eight venture companies have been born from the Institute for Advanced Biosciences so far, and Fermecutes Co., Ltd., where I serve as president, is the eighth company, established in 2021.

At Fermecutes, we are researching and developing "edible *natto* bacteria." As the term SDGs became widespread, I myself was thinking about whether I could create a new business utilizing my specialty, microorganisms. Since *natto* bacteria are, so to speak, a mass of protein, no research institution was working on eating the bacteria themselves. Amidst this, when I consulted with Masaru Tomita, the then Director of the Institute for Advanced Biosciences, he said, "That's interesting, let's do it," and we started research and development as a venture.

For about 17 years before that, I was at Human Metabolome Technologies, another venture company that started within the institute, and I was able to receive investment from this company as well when launching Fermecutes.

So, you weren't originally researching *natto* itself?

Yes, I'm a researcher of *natto* bacteria, not a researcher of *natto*. So, to be precise, it's not so much a love for soybeans as it is a love for the *natto* bacteria that love soybeans (laughs).

About 18 years ago at Satonoyuki Foods Inc., we tried inoculating okara with *natto* bacteria and feeding it to chickens as feed. The idea was to raise chickens without giving them antibiotics. When we sold the eggs from those chickens, they were very well-received, and we continued it for a while.

Are you not doing it anymore?

We're not doing it anymore. We tried to sell them as high-end eggs, but the market conditions didn't allow for it. I'd like to try it again someday.

However, we also found that combining the components in okara with *natto* bacteria creates a synergistic effect. For humans, this would be an intestinal regulating effect. Also, antibiotics are mixed into feed to increase the survival rate of chickens, but by mixing the *natto* bacteria okara into the feed, we were also able to lower the mortality rate.

That's amazing.

I think this is the power of *natto*. It was an incredibly smelly feed, though (laughs).

But *natto* bacteria are a mass of protein, so I think animals would eat it.

Actually, *natto* bacteria produce antibiotics. About five different kinds, in fact. That's why other bacteria don't grow on *natto*. However, it works on bacteria but not on mold, so sometimes mold can grow.

It's interesting that combining okara and *natto* bacteria, both familiar to the Japanese, creates new power.

It is interesting, isn't it? We are also researching the cultivation of *natto* bacteria using okara. We convert it into *natto* bacteria to the point where the okara almost disappears.

To make one kilogram of tofu, one kilogram of okara is produced. The problem is that this okara is treated as "industrial waste."

That became an issue in the past, didn't it?

Yes. There was a lawsuit over "what is okara." As a result, it was designated as industrial waste. That's why okara is a nuisance for tofu manufacturers.

What does Satonoyuki Foods Inc. do with its okara?

We sell the dried version at mass retailers as a product called "okara powder." However, that alone doesn't use it all up, so the reality is that we use it for livestock feed or dispose of it. It costs money to dispose of it, so I feel it's a waste.

We also get approached with requests to see if something can be done about it.

If what's being disposed of could be utilized effectively, I feel that would truly contribute to the SDGs.

If products using okara and *natto* bacteria become popular, we might then have a problem of not having enough *natto* bacteria (laughs).

We can make plenty of *natto* bacteria, so it's fine.

When we started using it as feed, we used to joke, "If we have to make okara for the *natto* bacteria, we'll have a surplus of tofu."

But okara is interesting, isn't it? I think it holds great potential, but how can we make it delicious to eat?

It's common, but perhaps by adding ingredients to make *unohana* or *shira-ae*. In some regions, it's also called *kirazu*. Okara used to be sold at local tofu shops. It's that delicious of a product.

You may already know this, but okara is the pulp left after squeezing soy milk, and it also contains the part corresponding to the "germ" of the soybean. Okara is rich in isoflavones and other nutrients, yet we are throwing away something so valuable.

That's right. We will also do our best to make it delicious by converting it with *natto* bacteria.

With poverty being a problem around the world, I believe soybeans have great potential to solve it. After all, they can be grown almost anywhere in the world and can be mass-produced. However, in reality, more than 90% of the soybeans grown worldwide are not for direct consumption but for oil extraction.

Japanese people have a food culture of eating soybeans deliciously, but unfortunately, in other countries, they are sometimes not even considered an ingredient. Even in regions where bean dishes are popular, soybeans are not eaten. Chili con carne and chili beans use red beans or chickpeas, but soybeans are rarely used as an ingredient.

Is that so?

Conversely, I wondered why Japanese people have gone to such lengths to devise ways to eat soybeans, which take so long to process. There are various foods made from soybeans, such as tofu, soy milk, okara, and yuba, but water is essential for both soaking and boiling. I think the fact that Japan had clean water was a major factor.

Previously, when I spoke with someone involved in aid activities in developing countries, they told me, "If you soak soybeans in water overnight, it would be a disaster with bacteria." I initially thought that soybeans were the best source of protein that could be stored at room temperature and would be useful in a food crisis, but it certainly takes time and effort to make them delicious. I reconsidered that further ingenuity is needed to solve social issues.

Clean water and a hygienic environment are essential for soy-based foods, after all.

Exactly. By the way, what I wanted to talk about with everyone today is what is called soy protein. The powdered form, which is a further concentration of the defatted soybeans produced when oil is extracted, has been imported from the United States since shortly after the war and used as a binder in various processed foods.

It's found in most relatively affordable processed foods like meatballs, chicken nuggets, and hamburgers. The purpose varies; it's not just for taste, but also to increase nutritional value, add bulk, or retain moisture.

Recently, amidst the movement to promote the SDGs, the demand for plant-based foods has increased, and this soy protein is being actively utilized. It's being re-evaluated even in regions like the EU and the US that don't have a culture of eating soybeans deliciously. However, the current situation is that it's still limited to the idea of using it as a protein. The concept of meat alternatives is also part of this movement.

So you're saying it's not yet a movement that could be called a food culture.

That's right. I don't think the idea of meat alternatives is bad, but even in Japan, which has a culture of eating soybeans deliciously, there is a tendency to follow that trend. I question that. Instead, I think we should be spreading Japan's wisdom of eating plant-based foods deliciously to the rest of the world.

At the Japan Soy-Food Meister Association, where I serve as Representative Director, we are also involved in food development from the perspective of making plant-based foods delicious. For example, we recently commercialized an evolved version of *ganmodoki* called "Gyanmo." We are also currently involved in developing a slightly chewy tofu that would go well in sandwiches.

We are also very interested in the development of soy-based foods. Major manufacturers are also putting effort into developing soy meat and soy hamburger products, aren't they? In convenience stores, a product called a tofu bar, which can be easily eaten with one hand, is now popular.

While there is this expansion, the tofu industry has shrunk significantly over the past decade or so. The number of tofu shops, which was once 15,000, has now dropped to below 5,000. So, has the market shrunk along with this? No, it hasn't.

Although there are various ways to look at it, the tofu market is said to be worth about 300 billion yen. One factor in the decline of tofu shops is the problem of a lack of successors, but the biggest issue is that it's difficult to add value to tofu itself. This leads to new ideas like tofu bars and soy milk yogurt.

Amidst this, Satonoyuki Foods Inc. started exporting tofu packed in paper cartons over 20 years ago. This has received a good response, but sadly, people in foreign countries don't eat it as *hiyayakko* (chilled tofu). Our company aims to make tofu that is delicious eaten as *hiyayakko*, so this situation is unfortunate.

What countries are you exporting to?

We are selling in Europe, the US, and Asia. I think our paper-packed tofu that can be distributed at room temperature is delicious, but in foreign countries, they cook the tofu, so it doesn't lead to an experience of tasting its true flavor.

As Ms. Ikegami said, soy meat is positioned merely as a substitute for meat, so it's generally not very tasty.

Of course, there is delicious soy meat. But it's also true that some are not. As long as we call it a meat alternative, I think it will be difficult to surpass meat. Therefore, I want to proudly proclaim it as a "soy food."

I think it's wonderful that Japanese food is spreading, but each country has its own food culture, and what Japanese people "like" may not be fully accepted as is. For example, Japanese people tend to like creamy or fluffy textures, but that's not necessarily popular overseas. In Japan, it's common to eat chilled tofu with soy sauce, but there might be regions that want to eat it with chili sauce.

Therefore, I also feel that we need to be creative without being bound by the stereotype of Japanese food, to suit various food cultures. For example, it's like the way Japanese people enjoy *tarako* spaghetti topped with *natto* or shiso leaves.

Are things like *ganmodoki* not well-liked in foreign countries?

Speaking of *ganmodoki*, its characteristic is that fluffy texture, so there might be places that don't like it. However, preferences vary from person to person, so I can't say for sure. More fundamentally, there seems to be a question like, "You eat soybeans?"

Ohashi: I see. In foreign countries, soybeans have a strong image of being livestock feed, right?

Exactly. That image is particularly strong in the United States.

So I think we need to start by changing that perception. The food culture of processing and eating soybeans is a field where Japan can lead, so it would be great if we could provide more of that food culture, processing technology, ideas, and manufacturing machines.

If people in China started to enjoy eating chilled tofu, I think consumption would increase dramatically. They now eat sushi and sashimi normally, so there's no reason they shouldn't eat raw tofu. To achieve that, the important thing is still to make delicious tofu. Hot tofu is also delicious, but to spread the ways of eating it, we need them to change their eating habits.

In the US, pre-processed tofu is distributed, but soy milk is also on the rise. As for so-called plant-based milks, there are also others like almond milk, right?

There's also oat milk, made from oats.

That's right. So, I think the perception that soybeans are for livestock is gradually changing.

I think that trend is a big opportunity for Japan. *Natto* bacteria also hold great potential, don't they? By the way, are you aware that the "Natto Challenge" has been trending recently?

What is that?

Videos of people "trying to eat something called *natto*" are spreading on social media. Along with the hashtag "#NattoChallenge," people from foreign countries are trying various ways of eating it.

I also think *natto* has potential. For example, one area with room for improvement is the packaging. *Natto* containers are usually made of styrofoam, right? To me, that looks rather cheap. I wonder if there's a form that would be more appealing to people overseas, and I'm currently experimenting with various ideas.

By the way, I'd like to ask Mr. Ohashi, is the reason for putting *natto* in styrofoam containers to ensure breathability? When inoculating soybeans with *natto* bacteria, will it not ferment in the chamber if there's no air circulation?

That's right. *Natto* bacteria are aerobic bacteria, meaning they can multiply in the presence of air, so breathability is necessary.

So, if you block the air with a plastic container, it won't ferment. The thing is, I don't find the three-tiered styrofoam containers you see in supermarkets very appetizing. I want to change that first, but I'm pondering how to create a container that ensures breathability and also makes people overseas want to eat it.

That's certainly true. Returning to the topic of soybean acceptance overseas, Japan has a developed culture of eating fermented soybeans, and *natto*, miso, and soy sauce are one answer. Fermentation makes the soy protein itself much easier to eat.

Soybeans originally contain about 30% protein, and there are no other grains with such a high content. In that sense, I'd like people to eat them as a protein source, but in places like the US, they don't see it that way. It's more like, "I've decided not to eat meat, so maybe I'll try some," rather than a primary protein source.

We Japanese get about 8% of our daily protein intake from soybeans. On the other hand, in the US, even vegetarians like vegans get only about 2% of their protein from beans. For meat-eaters, the protein from soybeans is about 0.1%. They're barely eating any.

I've been thinking for many years about why even vegans don't turn to soybeans, and I believe one reason is that the technology to process them well, like for tofu, *natto*, miso, and soy sauce, is not established in the US or Europe.

That's right. Historically, Japan's soy processing culture had already developed after the Kamakura period. The technology advanced when meat consumption was forbidden in Buddhism, and it took root over a long period. It's a great mystery how people at that time knew that soybeans contained protein that could replace meat and fish.

Japan's hot and humid climate likely played a big role, as there was a need to convert food into forms that wouldn't spoil as much as possible. I think that's also why fish were dried to make *himono*.

Soybeans are also a crop that stores well when dry, but they tend to spoil once rehydrated with water. However, when fermented with *natto* bacteria, other bacteria are kept at bay, and they last longer.

The same goes for *koji* mold. By adding a lot of salt, other bacteria are prevented from entering. Fermentation technology has been built up in this way.

The culture of fermentation has a very long history, doesn't it?

Yes, it does. I think that history is a history of the struggle with preservation.

The question "Why don't they eat soybeans?" has aspects that can only be understood by tracing history. Even in Japan, we now use olive oil as a matter of course, but when I was a child, it wasn't so widely available in stores. It's possible that something could trigger a major change.

That's true. But people in the West are quite reluctant to eat soybeans...

The other day, when I was exchanging opinions about our respective food cultures with people from Austria, they said that the number of "flexitarians" is increasing. Apparently, more people are centering their diets on plant-based foods and not actively eating meat or fish. They said that the demand for plant-based foods is growing among these flexitarians.

In that case, I think something like *koya-dofu* (freeze-dried tofu), which is light and doesn't take up much space, could become a standard souvenir. However, the packaging has "Koya-dofu" written in a brush-stroke style. Although there's a picture of a simmered dish, it probably doesn't convey to foreigners that it's made from soybeans.

Supermarkets all over Japan are lined with tofu, *atsuage* (thick fried tofu), and *natto*. It's truly amazing to have such a wide variety of plant-based foods available. But for Japanese people, it's so commonplace that they don't think to innovate.

A specialty of Tsuruoka City, where I live, is "Dadacha-mame." I think they are the king of edamame. All visitors from abroad enjoy them, saying they're delicious.

Edamame is popular with tourists from overseas, too. It's becoming a culture where "edamame" is understood. Japanese people, even if they're not vegan, will order delicious edamame or *agedashi-dofu* (deep-fried tofu in broth) as a matter of course. Such a food culture is rare from a global perspective. I think this is an important point to emphasize.

When people from abroad say edamame is delicious, it makes me think Japan should produce more soybeans. The countries that supply them in large quantities are Brazil and others, right? It would be great if Japan could be self-sufficient in delicious soybeans, just like rice.

That's right. The US, Brazil, and Argentina account for 70% of soybean production. The reason soybeans are so heavily genetically modified in the US is that the primary purpose is oil extraction. They are modified to increase oleic acid or to be resistant to herbicides and pests, not to pursue deliciousness.

Of course, that's not the whole story; delicious tofu and soy milk are also made from American soybeans. In those cases, they must be carefully selecting and importing suitable varieties.

Ohashi: Does Satonoyuki Foods Inc. use a lot of domestic soybeans?

It's about half and half. However, I think our company uses a relatively large amount of domestic soybeans among tofu manufacturers.

Isn't it difficult to procure domestic soybeans?

It is difficult. They are mainly from Hokkaido and Kyushu. But sadly, even if we put effort into sourcing ingredients, the tofu itself doesn't have brand power. So, we have to resort to slogans like "Made with Hokkaido brand soybeans."

This is a challenge for us as a manufacturer, and if it's just plain tofu, the selling price ends up being at most 98 yen. Our product sells for 188 yen, and I believe people can tell the difference in taste, but it's still vexing that there's such a large price difference for the same tofu. This is a difficult problem.

Are soybeans the key to increasing added value?

When I became president 27 years ago, I told my employees, "I want you to make the most delicious tofu in Japan." And also, "Let's research the history of tofu for our studies." Foods with a long history, like cheese and other dairy products, usually have literature, don't they? But tofu, despite having a 1,000-year history, has no old literature.

So, we started research from scratch to make the most delicious tofu in Japan. Tofu is, in a way, a combination of soybeans, water, *nigari* (coagulant), and packaging. We divided into four teams and researched for a year and a half.

As a result, we found that what determines the deliciousness of soybeans is their preservability. Tofu is at its most delicious right after it's made. Maintaining that freshness is the most important factor in determining the taste of tofu.

And what's important for making delicious, fresh tofu is the soybeans. In other words, the ingredient itself.

To make tofu, you coagulate soy milk, and we found that the secret lies in the balance of lipids, sugars, and proteins contained in the soybeans. It might seem that more sugar would make it more delicious, but when coagulated with *nigari*, this can turn into an unpleasant taste. Therefore, it's important to choose soybeans with a good balance of lipids, sugars, and proteins.

Of course, water and *nigari* are also important, but there are soybeans that are suitable for tofu. And it's interesting that the deliciousness of the soybeans themselves and the deliciousness when made into tofu do not necessarily match.

I understand. Even if you make tofu with soy milk that you think is delicious, it's not always delicious, is it?

By the way, if you add *natto* bacteria powder to soy milk, stir it, and drink it, it becomes delicious.

Is that so! Does the *natto* bacteria powder not have a *natto*-like smell?

*Natto* bacteria itself has almost no *natto* smell. When you mix *natto* bacteria powder into soy milk, it develops a creamy aroma, increases in richness, and becomes delicious.

Like lactic acid bacteria, do *natto* bacteria not die when heated?

They do die.

There are commercial intestinal remedies that produce an intestinal regulating effect through the power of lactic acid bacteria. They must kill the lactic acid bacteria during the manufacturing process, but the intestinal regulating effect is not lost. Do *natto* bacteria have a similar effect?

The reason dead lactic acid bacteria have an intestinal regulating effect is that the living lactic acid bacteria in the intestines eat the part on the surface of the bacteria called the "cell wall." It is said that eating the cell wall increases the lactic acid bacteria in the body.

So, does that mean an intestinal remedy can be made with *natto* bacteria?

Exactly. Fermecutes has a patent for that. Drinkable *natto* bacteria in capsule form have also been commercialized.

There are also supplements that allow you to take nattokinase derived from *natto* bacteria. I heard that Fermecutes is working on the research and development of *natto* bacteria powder with an eye on the food crisis problem, but how far has it progressed in terms of actual application?

What we are making now is *natto* bacteria powder that can be put into bread. *Natto* bacteria powder absorbs moisture well, so it makes the bread chewy. It also adds a little weight and richness, making it very delicious.

That sounds delicious. And it increases the protein content, right? Is it that *natto* bacteria become more delicious and nutritious when mixed with something rather than consumed alone?

That's right. *Natto* bacteria are a significant protein source, so rather than making processed foods like meat alternatives, for example, when making a pizza, it can be added to the dough, sauce, and cheese. Our goal is to create a totally high-protein meal in this way.

The reason we made *natto* bacteria into a powder is that there are various food cultures around the world. The method of having it mixed into the local foods and dishes to make them even more delicious is probably the most logical.

Of course, creating something like a "protein *natto* bacteria bar" and finding sales channels overseas is one way to do it. However, we are engaged in research and development with the belief that it's healthier to have it naturally incorporated into local food cultures.

So you're saying it's more rational for it to be an ingredient that supports from behind as a protein source, rather than being presented upfront as "something made with *natto* bacteria."

That's right. It can be put in bread, pizza, naan, and pasta. By making it usable in such ways, I think it will be easier to expand in terms of quantity. The food crisis is a global issue, so unless it spreads on a scale of hundreds of thousands or millions of tons, it won't be enough to contribute to solving the problem.

The food industry does have the difficulty of needing to develop with an eye on quantitative expansion, doesn't it?

In that respect, too, okara is a very excellent ingredient. If we can get okara from manufacturers, we can also cultivate *natto* bacteria on our end.

We would definitely like to ask you to do that (laughs).

Looking at it in relation to soybeans, I think fermentation will change from now on. We call *natto* bacteria "fermented protein," and we can see various possibilities as a protein source. If *natto* bacteria can also produce products with various flavors, the possibilities should expand even more.

Looking at fermentation more broadly, *koji* mold can also be a protein source. *Koji* is also a technology that Japanese people have accumulated since ancient times through things like soy sauce brewing.

Listening to you has made me love soybeans even more. I was able to learn about the potential of *natto* bacteria to contribute to the development of foods other than *natto*, and I once again felt the great potential of Japan's soy food culture and the indispensable fermentation culture that goes with it. I was reminded of what an interesting ingredient it is.