Sports Science Learned from Climbing

Ever since I can remember, I've loved climbing trees. So much so that after a classmate got injured trying to copy me, tree climbing was banned at school. Seeing this, my parents took me to a climbing club in a shopping mall when I was in elementary school. I became absorbed in climbing walls, and by my third year of junior high, I was competing in the World Youth Championships. I continued to compete in youth tournaments throughout high school.

I had always liked math and physics, and I wanted to deepen my knowledge of sports-related subjects while continuing to climb. That's why I went on from Keio Senior High School to SFC, which has a research group for sports science.

The theme of my research is "The Impact of Different Gripping Methods on Performance in Rock Climbing." Gripping methods refer to the shape of the hand when grasping a hold (a projection) in climbing. When gripping a thin hold about 6 millimeters thick, there are three main types of grips: one using just the fingers, one that includes the thumb, and an intermediate one. I found it strange that there were differences in these gripping methods among climbers of similar physique and skill level. I myself have a gripping method I'm not good at, and I wanted to figure out how to master it.

In my research, I am recreating an environment close to actual climbing. I conduct trials using a pull-up rack and collect data through electromyography (EMG) and external force measurements using force sensors. As my research progressed, I gained a deeper understanding of mechanical factors such as the center of gravity. Now, when I see other climbers, I can visualize vector-like arrows on them. This research has permeated my daily practice, creating a feedback loop between theory and practice.

While analyzing body usage with electromyography, I noticed something. Initially, I predicted that since the main difference in gripping methods was the finger angle, there would be significant differences in the finger muscles. However, I found that the major differences were actually in the muscles involved in wrist flexion and extension. This is due to the "tenodesis effect," where extending the wrist naturally causes the fingers to flex. I realized that climbers unconsciously utilize this bodily action in their climbing.

Current training methods mainly consist of old-fashioned techniques like doing weighted pull-ups while holding thin 6 mm or 4 mm holds. One of my goals is to elucidate the mechanisms of movement through my current research and propose more rational training methods. Currently, my research is mainly based on electromyography, but I plan to add more experimental equipment and deepen my research when I advance to a master's program. I also want to increase the number of measurement points and further investigate the functions of the wrist and forearm.

At SFC, where there are few required courses, I can freely choose the lectures necessary for my research. The abundance of programming-related classes is also very characteristic of SFC, and I've used the skills I learned in these lectures for data analysis and electronics projects.

Climbing is a sport that people who are not fond of group activities often end up in. As a competitor, I recognize this trait in myself. The lack of constraints at SFC makes it an attractive environment where I can balance my academic pursuits with continuing to do what I love. In the Yuji Ogi Research Group, which specializes in sports science, I can also learn from examples in other sports, gaining a comprehensive perspective. The opportunity to have valuable exchanges of ideas about research methods like electromyography is another wonderful aspect of the research group.

Although climbing has become quite popular in Japan, there are still very few athletes who can make a living from the sport alone. Although I made the Japanese national team in 2020, I was unable to compete in the World Cup due to the COVID-19 pandemic and the discovery of a chronic illness. My current goal is to compete at the world level by participating in World Cups and the World Championships. To achieve this, I want to continue balancing research and climbing by advancing to graduate school. The environment at SFC, where I can be active as an athlete while also making climbing the subject of my research, is ideal.