Okashira's Diary | Ikuo Kaneko (Dean, Graduate School of Media and Governance)
October 23, 2008
Everyone, the season for *shin-soba* (newly harvested buckwheat noodles) is here! So, for "Gourmet Guide Part One," I'd like to present a guide to the soba restaurants near my home. (Whether there will be a Part Two or Part Three depends on the reception of this column.)
Recently, a soba boom has suddenly taken off among the locals. The six soba restaurants within walking distance are always full, no matter when you go. In this district, where all sorts of sophisticated restaurants line the streets—from Italian and French to Albanian—perhaps the health-conscious trend is what's considered chic.
"SC," located between a very popular 100-yen shop that recently appeared in the neighborhood and a famous wine store, is a place with a homey atmosphere and a classic menu. It has many regulars, and going in sandals is the proper way. Manager Hara of the Yomiuri Giants also used to come in his everyday clothes. The *donburi* (rice bowls) at soba restaurants are usually delicious, but the popular item here is the juicy *oyakodon*. At "HN," near the subway station where a handsome chef greets you, I recommend the two-color soba with vegetable tempura (plus ordering the special salad separately). The super-famous "TY" is incredibly delicious, with each noodle asserting the aroma of buckwheat, but it's also incredibly expensive. However, their *sobagaki* (buckwheat dumplings) are worth trying at least once (the coarsely ground version is eaten with rock salt and wasabi, without soy sauce).
"KY," where the son has recently returned to help out, is a typical small neighborhood soba restaurant that makes you want to cheer it on. The *korokke teishoku* (croquette set meal) at lunchtime is good. "Sohonke SS" in the shopping arcade attracts all kinds of customers, regardless of race or profession. You can't go wrong with anything you order, but it's a place to savor a chic Edo atmosphere.
Finally, there's "TM," a "hideaway" with an unassuming appearance that first-time customers might not even realize is a restaurant. It's diligently run by a young couple (or so they appear) who look like they've stepped out of a TV drama. The ceramic tableware, such as plates and bowls, makes a quiet statement—probably a reflection of the wife's taste. The clientele is pleasant. Around lunchtime on weekends, you'll find many three-generation families with small children. Groups of grandmothers in their 80s chat amiably while drinking beer and picking at dishes like grilled eggplant and *dashimaki tamago* (rolled omelet) topped with plenty of grated daikon radish. It's a lovely scene. Soba connoisseurs usually judge a new restaurant by its *mori soba* (cold soba), but here, I'd like you to try the *kake soba* (hot soba in broth) first.
(Date of publication: October 23, 2008)