Taiga Kasuya: Regarding the Haitian Mushroom "djon djon"

Are you familiar with the island of Hispaniola in the Caribbean Sea of Central America? The Republic of Haiti is located on the western side of this island, while the Dominican Republic is on the eastern side. Haiti's security situation has deteriorated due to the impact of the massive earthquake in January 2010, long-standing political instability, and the rise of gangs. Furthermore, because mahogany and other native trees were over-harvested for timber since the colonial era, and the cleared land was used recklessly, landslides and floods have become frequent occurrences.

As such, Haitian society continues to be in an extremely unstable state, and the country's environment is steadily worsening. Consequently, many people are currently migrating from Haiti to countries such as the United States, Canada, France, and the Dominican Republic.

In areas where many Haitian immigrants live, small, dark dried mushrooms called "djon djon" are sold as an ingredient for Haitian cuisine. "Djon djon" are wild mushrooms primarily collected within Haiti, and the dried products are bagged and exported/sold for Haitian immigrants. When "djon djon" is rehydrated in water, a black liquid containing umami components seeps out from the mushrooms. Rice cooked using this black liquid is called "diri djon djon," a traditional dish that can be considered a national food in Haiti.

In collaboration with cultural anthropologists, I have begun research focusing on points such as which wild mushrooms Haitians use as "djon djon," where the origins of this food culture lie and through what process it became established in Haiti, and how the "djon djon" food culture will transform in the future as the Haitian people disperse throughout the world. Haiti is a country where slaves brought primarily from West and Central Africa rose up during the colonial era, eventually achieving independence from France. Thinking that the origins of the "djon djon" food culture may also lie in West Africa, I plan to conduct surveys in Hispaniola and West Africa in the future.

While the situation in Haiti remains critical, the "djon djon" mushroom may provide a new perspective when considering the people and society of Haiti.