Petra: The Archaeological Site with a 90-Fold Entrance Fee

2020/07/14

Located inland in southern Jordan, the World Heritage site of Petra is a capital city built by the Nabataeans, who lived in the region from around the 6th century BCE. The buildings, carved directly into the rock faces of the dry valleys, are magnificent, and the temples are adorned with exquisite decorations. The reddish rock surfaces turn a rose color in the sunlight, making it a popular tourist spot. It is also famous as a filming location for the movie "Indiana Jones."

Since studying abroad as a graduate student in 2003, I have visited this place many times. I have gone on excursions with classmates from language school and acted as a guide for acquaintances. However, I have never gone with Jordanian friends; I was usually with Japanese people or other foreigners. The sandstone ruins suddenly appearing in the desert and the camel tours might be the very embodiment of the "Orientalism" criticized by Edward Said.

Perhaps in anticipation of such foreign tourists, the difference in entrance fees for Petra between foreigners and local residents is a staggering 90-fold. The local rate of 1 JD (approx. 150 yen) is a reasonable price—higher than a city bus fare but cheaper than a taxi's starting fare—but the entrance fee for foreign day-trippers is 90 JD, well over 10,000 yen. It is said to be the most expensive entrance fee in the world. Although the site is so vast that a full day is not enough to see it all, the pricing is quite high. During long-term stays, I used my Jordanian ID to enter.

This pricing reflects the weakness of Jordan's industrial base. Not being an oil-producing country and lacking any prominent industries, Jordan has few sources of income other than logistics and tourism. Because it accepts many refugees, it is highly dependent on international aid. To begin with, it has been less than a hundred years since the country was created in a region that was originally fragmented due to division by the Great Powers. It might be unreasonable to expect it to become self-reliant so suddenly.

Incidentally, while most people in modern Jordan are Arabic speakers, there is no "P" sound in Arabic. The name "Petra" seems to originate from the Greek word for "rock." Having a name of foreign origin and being registered with UNESCO, the site charges foreign tourists exorbitant entrance fees as if seizing the opportunity. I find something strangely endearing in that bluntness.