A World History of Chinese Cuisine: Beyond the Nationalism of Gastronomy

2021/11/17

As Chinese and Chinese-style cuisine spreads throughout the world, how unique is Japanese Chinese cuisine? How did the establishment of nation-states—a significant event in modern world history—change Asian cuisine and food culture? This book is the result of embarking on "food journeys" to various countries and persistently researching their histories based on such simple questions.

In Part 1, I observed that "Chinese cuisine" only established itself as a single culinary system relatively recently. In culinary capitals like Shanghai during the Republic of China era, trends in regional cuisines changed rapidly. In Beijing, which became the capital of the People's Republic of China in 1949, the essence of these cuisines was gathered to create dishes for state banquets and used in diplomatic settings. It was around this time that roast duck became world-famous as "Peking Duck." The convenient explanatory framework of the "Four Great Cuisines" of China also finally appeared around the 1960s.

In the following Part 2, I focused on Chinese-style dishes that have become national foods in various Asian countries, comparing and verifying their formation processes. Singapore's chicken rice, Vietnam's pho, Thailand's pad thai, the Philippines' pancit, and South Korea's jajangmyeon are all "relatives" of Japanese ramen and are beloved in their respective countries. I aimed to highlight the various political dynamics that were at work before these became national dishes.

In Part 3, I discussed the spread of Chinese cuisine in countries such as the United States and the United Kingdom. While unique developments in Chinese food culture can be seen in the US and Europe, issues related to racialized views of Chinese people and their culture also became apparent. On the other hand, I found that people of Asian descent, including Japanese Americans, played an indispensable role in the spread of Chinese cuisine.

Finally, in Part 4, based on the world-historical perspective mentioned above, I re-examined Japanese Chinese cuisine. I want to exercise restraint regarding unconscious cultural nationalism, such as the theory that the lazy Susan (rotating table) originated in Japan. However, Japanese Chinese cuisine stands out for its rich history, deep penetration, and cultural diversity, and I have deepened my desire to love, protect, and promote it just like Japanese cuisine.

A World History of Chinese Cuisine: Beyond the Nationalism of Gastronomy

Kazuhiro Iwama

Keio University Press

652 pages, 2,750 yen (tax included)

*Affiliations and titles are as of the time of publication.