Aya Murakami: Reviving Isesaki Meisen

2024/10/17

Among the Meisen silk fabrics produced in northern Kanto from the Meiji era to the early Showa era, Isesaki City in Gunma Prefecture possessed an advanced technique called "Heiyo-kasuri." Its vibrant "Isesaki Meisen" was beloved by women across the country.

However, due to the post-war shift to Western-style clothing and a shortage of artisans, the technique has remained lost. For over half a century, there has been no one left to produce it.

I was born and raised in Isesaki City and first encountered Isesaki Meisen when I was in junior high school. I was shocked to discover such a wonderful kimono existed in my hometown, and I have been captivated by its charm ever since. Since production was already impossible by the time I was born, I had no choice but to accept that fact. However, during my university years, I began thinking, "I want to revive Isesaki Meisen," and I started traveling across the country to visit artisans and craftspeople in an effort to restore the technique.

In 2020, I launched the culture brand "Ay" to bring Isesaki Meisen back to life for the modern era. Drawn to the modern textile designs of Meisen, I decided to reuse the fabric rather than keeping it as a kimono, developing new clothing through upcycling. Since Meisen is rare, I carefully consider the designs to ensure they are as beautiful as possible. Each piece is meticulously disassembled, cleaned, and then produced at factories within Japan, primarily in Gunma Prefecture. Additionally, through our "Kimono Remake Service," we redesign customers' cherished kimonos into new garments using Ay's designs.

However, relying solely on existing Meisen fabric will inevitably reach a limit. Therefore, instead of depending on existing materials, I developed an original textile called "Ai no Nuno," which uses digital technology to revive patterns based on Isesaki Meisen. This is not Isesaki Meisen itself, but a new textile created by digitizing characteristic Meisen patterns and adding our own interpretations and designs. By integrating technology, we are building a digital archive and putting it to use.

Moving forward, while continuing research to revive Isesaki Meisen, I will promote digital archiving through upcycling and "Ai no Nuno" to carry the charm of Isesaki Meisen into the future.

*Affiliations and titles are as of the time of publication.