Masae Fukuzumi

2021/01/28

Image: Collection of the Fukuzawa Memorial Center for Modern Japanese Studies

Today, Hakone is one of Japan's leading historic hot spring resorts, and due to its convenient transportation, it has become a famous destination visited by many tourists from both Japan and abroad.

In 2019 (Reiwa 1), posters were displayed at Odakyu Line stations and other locations to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the opening of the Hakone Tozan Railway between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora. These posters read:

"Dear Professor Yukichi Fukuzawa, it has been 100 years since the railway began running through the mountains of Hakone."

"I intend to run rickshaws through the Hakone mountains, and in a few years, I plan to break through the mountains to build a railway."

These are the words of Yukichi Fukuzawa, who envisioned the future of Hakone during the Meiji era. (Omitted)"

On June 1, 1919 (Taisho 8), almost 100 years ago, the mountain railway opened in Hakone. In Hakone from the end of the Edo period through the Meiji Restoration, modernization in transportation, tourism, and culture—which continues to this day—began to progress. Receiving advice from Yukichi Fukuzawa, it was Masae Fukuzumi (1824–1892) who contributed greatly to this development.

Masae Fukuzumi was born on August 21, 1824 (Bunsei 7), in Kataoka Village, Osumi District, Sagami Province (now Hiratsuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture), as the fifth son of the village headman, Ichizaemon Osawa. His childhood name was Masakichi. In 1827 (Bunsei 10), he was adopted by Katsugoro Mori, the headman of Minamikaname Village, but later returned to his original home following the death of his adoptive parents. Subsequently, in 1830 (Tenpo 1), at the age of seven, he received instruction from the Confucian scholar Toin Senga. Having experienced the "Great Tenpo Famine," one of the four great famines of the Edo period that lasted from the 4th to the 7th or 10th year of the Tenpo era, Fukuzumi aspired to become a doctor to help farmers who had fallen into poverty.

However, his biological father advised him: "A first-class doctor heals the nation, a middle-class doctor heals people, and a lower-class doctor heals diseases. Currently, there is a great doctor healing the nation. That is Master Ninomiya. Master Ninomiya is a first-class doctor. Rather than becoming a doctor who heals people's illnesses, you should become a doctor who heals the nation's illnesses." He was urged to study "Hotoku," the economic philosophy spread by Sontoku Ninomiya as a doctor who heals the nation's illnesses.

In order to study under Sontoku, Fukuzumi headed to Edo in the 13th year of Tenpo, but was unable to achieve his goal at that time. In October 1845 (Koka 2), he finally entered the Ninomiya Juku. Even after Sontoku moved from the Sakuramachi Jinya to the Togo Jinya (both in present-day Moka City, Tochigi Prefecture), Fukuzumi lived with Sontoku, caring for his master while receiving various teachings for about five years. He recorded these numerous teachings in a work titled "Nyozegamon-roku." Fukuzumi later compiled the "Ninomiya-o Yawa" (Evening Talks of Old Man Ninomiya) based on these records.

Some of the things Sontoku taught Fukuzumi included establishing a "single-minded determination" and being thorough, "conducting oneself with modesty" to avoid falling into disgrace, and keeping in mind not to mistake the true essence of one's duties. These lessons learned during his life with Sontoku became the foundation that supported Fukuzumi's later activities.

In October 1850 (Kaei 3), Fukuzumi left the Ninomiya Juku and was adopted into the Fukuzumi family, which had operated a hot spring inn in Hakone-Yumoto for generations since the early Edo period. He married in December and succeeded to the name Kuzo X. At this time, the Fukuzumi family needed reconstruction due to the effects of a fire that had spread from a neighboring building, and Fukuzumi first set about the restoration. His method involved practicing Sontoku's Hotoku teachings, such as "bundo" (living within one's means) and "suijo" (sharing surplus). As a result of striving for business improvements, "honesty," "low prices," and treating everyone equally regardless of social rank, the family business flourished and Fukuzumi's reputation grew.

Due to this achievement, Fukuzumi was appointed headman of Yumoto Village at the age of 27. He worked and devoted himself to the restoration and revitalization of the dilapidated Yumoto Village, keeping Sontoku's teachings in his heart. Additionally, Fukuzumi commissioned Hiroshige Ando (Utagawa), who stayed at the Fukuzumi Inn, to create ukiyo-e maps to promote not only the Fukuzumi Inn but also Hakone, such as "Views of the Seven Springs of Hakone," "Illustration of the Residence of Kuzo Fukuzumi in Hakone-Yumoto," and "Simplified Map of the Seven Springs Directions."

In 1865 (Keio 1), in recognition of his achievements in restoration, Fukuzumi was granted the right to wear a short sword and hakama and to use a surname by the Odawara Domain.

After the Restoration, Fukuzumi considered ways to achieve "national wealth" from a private-sector level to adapt to this new era. He submitted petitions to open a school in the Odawara Domain to promote national learning. Meanwhile, since the Odawara Domain and Odawara Prefecture had strong ties with Fukuzawa regarding educational reform, his interest in Fukuzawa undoubtedly deepened naturally.

Fukuzawa contracted typhoid fever in 1870 (Meiji 3). There is a record that he stayed in Yumoto and Tonosawa in Hakone for hot spring therapy on his way back from Atami, where he had gone for convalescence from late September to October. This was his first stay in Hakone, and it was during this time that Fukuzawa stayed at the Fukuzumi Inn in Yumoto.

Unlike today, where railways and roads are well-maintained, road conditions in Fukuzawa's time were inconvenient for traveling over the Hakone mountains, yet Fukuzawa visited Hakone frequently thereafter. His regular lodgings were the Fukuzumi Inn in Yumoto and the Tonosawa Fukuzumi, which was a branch of the family. Looking at the records, perhaps because the trips also served as rest for himself and his family, each stay was long, ranging from several days to several weeks. Incidentally, it is said that Fukuzawa preferred the Tonosawa hot springs, which were "warm and light in feel" ("Shiori of the Seven Springs"), over the Yumoto springs, which were "cool and tasteless."

It is said that every time Fukuzawa stayed at the Fukuzumi Inn, he looked forward to talking with Fukuzumi. Letters from Fukuzawa to Fukuzumi remain; the first is from 1873 (Meiji 6), in which Fukuzawa notes that he had planned to visit Fukuzumi in Yumoto while staying in Tonosawa, but was unable to do so due to urgent business in Tokyo, expressing his regret and mentioning that he was sending five copies of "An Encouragement of Learning" to Fukuzumi.

What kind of stimulus did the meeting with Fukuzawa provide for Masae Fukuzumi? Fukuzumi, who sympathized with and deepened his respect for Fukuzawa (who was about twelve years his junior), and Fukuzawa, who respected Fukuzumi's spirit and practical ability in restoring Yumoto Village. Fukuzumi, based on Hotoku thought, and Fukuzawa, who had early on aspired to Western studies, together considered the nature of the region in the new era. Their mutual understanding led to the realization of Hakone's modernization.

Fukuzumi handed over the family headship to his eldest son in 1871 (Meiji 4), and from then on, Kuzo Fukuzumi X changed his name to Masae Fukuzumi. In 1872 (Meiji 5), Japan's first steam locomotive began running between Shimbashi and Yokohama. In March of the following year, Fukuzawa wrote a proposal titled "Consultation on Hakone Road Construction" at Tonosawa Fukuzumi (now Fukuzumiro), arguing that the development of transportation infrastructure connecting the seven springs of Hakone (Yumoto, Tonosawa, Dogashima, Miyanoshita, Sokokura, Kiga, and Ashinoyu) was an urgent necessity for the regional development and modernization of Hakone. He submitted it to the Ashigara Shimbun. The proposal published in the 6th issue of the Ashigara Shimbun was as follows:

"In the path of human life, it is most important to set aside immediate greed and calculate future profits. If a new road is built from Yumoto in Hakone to Tonosawa, rounding the foot of the mountains to the southeast, it will make travel convenient and naturally bring prosperity to the land, and both Tonosawa and Yumoto, as well as all seven springs, should equally receive that fortune. Yet, despite their ignorance, the people of the bathhouses have deep immediate greed; they have left the temporary bridge on the lower road as it was after being washed away by last year's flood, forcing travelers to go through the mountain paths. This is not only a hardship for travelers but ultimately a loss for all the bathhouses. When I asked how much the cost of building the new road would be, I was told it would not exceed one hundred ryo. It seems the temporary bridge on the lower road is built two or three times every year, and the cost each time is more than ten ryo. Three times at ten ryo is thirty ryo. They grudgingly pay thirty ryo every year but do not know to pay one hundred ryo at once; I have no words for such foolishness. (Omitted) While Yukichi Fukuzawa is staying in Tonosawa this time, if the new road at the foot of the mountain is built within twenty days, I shall donate ten ryo. What is the view of the bathhouse association?"

"Written by Yukichi Fukuzawa at Tonosawa Fukuzumi, March 16, Meiji 6."

Fukuzawa posted the following text the next day, which was also published in the same issue:

"Do not worry about having no friends in the world. When I began the consultation of the previous text yesterday, I met with Mr. Tomita of Ushigome, Tokyo today. When I showed him this text, he finished reading it and, deeming it good without spending a moment's thought, immediately gave ten ryo to be donated for the road construction. (Omitted) Not only for this road between Yumoto and Tonosawa, but I also intend to run rickshaws through the Hakone mountains, and in a few years, I plan to break through the mountains to build a railway. I leave this volume with the bathhouse association of Tonosawa."

Triggered by this first, somewhat provocative article and the second article calling for supporters for the donation, road development by the people of Hakone became active.

In 1874 (Meiji 7), in a letter addressed to Tadatoshi Kashiwagi, the Governor of Ashigara Prefecture whom the enlightened Fukuzawa trusted, he wrote, "I am consulting with the master of the inn, Kuzo of Yumoto (referring to Masae Fukuzumi), and talking about road construction." This shows that he had selected Fukuzumi as the driving force for road excavation and was seeking Kashiwagi's assistance for that purpose.

Fukuzumi took a central role in various projects for the modernization of Hakone.

First, as the first step in Hakone's road development, in July 1875 (Meiji 8), he began road excavation work between Odawara and Yamazaki in Yumoto Village to allow horse-drawn carriages and rickshaws to pass, and it opened in September. In February of the following year, it was extended to Yumoto, allowing rickshaws to enter, and in 1882 (Meiji 15), horse-drawn carriage services also began. This road was Japan's first toll road to collect passage fees.

In 1879 (Meiji 12), Fukuzumi completed the three-story "Kinsen-ro" and "Bansui-ro," which fused Western and Japanese architecture. Before this construction, Fukuzumi traveled to the Tokyo and Yokohama areas accompanied by carpenters. They likely inspected pseudo-Western style architecture by master carpenters and Western architecture designed by foreign engineers.

In 1879, shortly after these two buildings were completed, an Englishman named Reed reportedly stayed at the Fukuzumi Inn, but Fukuzumi generally seemed reluctant to accept foreign tourists. In this regard, his management policy differed from that of Sennosuke Yamaguchi of the Fujiya Hotel, which had opened in Miyanoshita Onsen the previous year.

Furthermore, in July 1887 (Meiji 20), Fukuzumi and six other volunteers submitted a petition to Kanagawa Prefecture for the construction of a horse-drawn railway (between Kozu and Yumoto), which opened in October of the following year. A horse-drawn railway is a railway where horses pull carriages along tracks.

Fukuzumi ended his life on May 20, 1892 (Meiji 25), at the age of 69. Even after Fukuzumi's death, Fukuzawa visited Hakone many times with his family and students, staying at the Fukuzumi Inn. One wonders with what feelings Fukuzawa viewed the landscape of Hakone as it modernized and changed.

Neither lived to see the opening of the Hakone Tozan Railway, but looking back at their lifetime achievements, it can be said that the origin of today's Hakone, which is vibrant and visited by many people, lies in the great contribution of Masae Fukuzumi and the interaction between Fukuzumi and Fukuzawa.

The Fukuzumi Inn continues to operate today as Bansuiro Fukuzumi, and in 2002 (Heisei 14), its old building became the first operating inn to be designated a National Important Cultural Property.